While whisky undergoes its long maturation in oak barrels, the alcohol that evaporates away is said to the be the Angels’ share. With over 60 distilleries in the region of Moray and Speyside we could almost taste Scotland’s finest export on the air, but would we find good riding too? We spent three days in Scotland’s whisky capital to find out.
When planning an MTB road trip around Scotland it’s easy to focus on the heavyweights – Fort William, Torridon, Perthshire and the Tweed Valley have all established themselves as iconic riding destinations. However, for those with a sense of adventure Scotland has some hidden gems that, just like it’s whisky, pack a serious punch. We traveled to Moray and Speyside, located on the North East of Scotland just prior to the Scottish Enduro Series in Glenlivet to see what riding we could find.
Riding the Moray Monster Trails
Our first destination was probably the most famous of the Moray mountain bike trails, the Moray Monster Trails. This was our first visit to the popular trail centre lying just outside of Fochabers, and we could see that there had been some very recent developments occurring. As we rolled into the Leggat car park we were greeted with an awesome freshly built pump track and skills area, smooth as silk with enough jumps and rolls to satisfy even the most enthusiastic of test pilots. We got so excited playing in the skills area that we almost forgot about the trails on offer.
The Moray Monster Trails have an extensive network of 11 trails suitable for riders of all levels and while we had great fun riding the flowing ribbons of singletrack and tight turns of the Fochabers Freeride and the high-speed action of the Mast Black there was one track that well and truly burned itself into our memories. The Gully Monster – a trail that we are happy to say was one of the best trail center trails we have ridden, starting with a punch on some steep turns you are soon into the gully where you flow – but not too fast – down a lush green gully. Exposure and thrills are high and a few blind corners demand respect but it’s simply intoxicating fun, especially the fast and flowy berms to the car park. We could have ridden the Gully Monster Trail all day but we needed to check out more of the riding in the area and we needed to get to Kinloss for the next part of the adventure.
Big views on the Moray Coast Trail
After the high thrills of the Moray Monster Trail our next mission was to be a much more relaxed and vista filled adventure. The plan was to ride the Moray Coast Trail – a short 2-3 hour excursion on the highly scenic path between Hopeman and Lossiemouth. As we left the car park in Hopeman the day was drawing to an end and the ice cream shop in Lossie was closing at 6pm, so the pressure was on. The Moray Coast Trail is a multi-user path that hugs the coastline, offering easy fun riding and the perfect opportunity for a swim in one of the many coves that you pass, though some can be pretty tricky to get into with a bike.
After the berms and jumps of the trail centre it was great to be out on the cliff tops, riding for the views and taking in the amazing scenery. Intense yellow Gorse covered the cliff tops and there looked to be potential for some great surf spots if the swell was higher. For a large proportion of the ride we dropped onto the beach and had fun drifting and making shapes in the sand, knowing that the incoming tide would remove any trace of our presence. This was the realm of plus sized tyres and simply brilliant fun. We passed under the Covesea Lighthouse and enjoyed some fast and loose descents through the gorse-lined clifftop corridors, before savouring our prize, a triple scoop ice cream in Lossie.
Mountain biking on Ben Rinnes, a proper mountain adventure.
After the fun of our sea level mission, we were pretty keen to get some proper height under our belts, and one destination stood head and shoulders – literally – above the rest. Ben Rinnes is an iconic sight in Morayshire, standing 840 m tall it provides stunning views over eight counties. The route we were riding was a 2 hour out and back ride, starting at a small car park at the base of the hill we got straight into the stiff climb. As we passed curious sheep the views unfolded and the bulk of the mountain reared up in front of us. The route is one single trail maintained by the ‘Friends of Ben Rinnes’ volunteer group, a rocky path that zig-zags up the open mountain side. Being an out and back we were able to check out each of the rock gardens to see if they were reliable, and all were – albeit with great difficulty.
Finally at the top, as we crawled over the peak we were rewarded with epic views that stretched as far as our eyes could see. As we smashed down some sandwiches on the rocky summit we talked excitedly about the descent, it would be a real challenge to clean all the sections and rock gardens – we were buzzing. Dropping off the top of the summit we charged down the descent, all downhill, our brakes were boiling as we hit one section after the other, rocky slabs and stairways that were only just possible. Hitting the car park it was all high fives, it had been a great ride and one that could be done by riders of any level (though you would need to walk a lot of the rock gardens unless very confident).
Off the beaten track in Moray
While we were in Moray we also sniffed out some of the more ‘off-piste’ trails and found some excellent and very technical trails. Ribbons of natural hand-cut trail with some seriously steep features and fun jumps lie in wait for those who like their riding a little spicier. As with many of the best natural trails, these are not strictly official and we don’t want to upset the builders by naming them on here, but if you pop into the excellent Base Camp Bikes in Grantown on Spey, the friendly staff will be sure to see you to the good stuff.
What to do when not riding in Moray
Moray and Speyside have many activities for days off or for non-riding partners. Of course, there are good beaches and great hikes but any trip to Moray and Speyside would not be complete without a visit to one of the many amazing distilleries. Whisky is one of Scotland’s most famous exports, and even those who cannot stomach the powerful drink will be amazed at the romance and passion that goes into producing Scotland’s ‘eau de vie’. We enjoyed a great tour of the Strathisla distillery, the oldest continuously operating distillery in Scotland – sitting on the banks of the River Isla, and had our first taste of the ferociously potent cask strength malts. Most distilleries will also provide you with an ‘enjoy later’ pack if you are driving or riding.
Where to eat in Moray?
We found most of the villages and towns had good coffee shops and cafes for refueling. For a treat we would highly recommend the Copper Dog in Craigellachie, a far cry from the usual Scottish drinking establishment, the Copper Dog’s blend of rustic charm, modern service and simply awesome food became one of the trip highlights (not to mention the well-stocked whisky bar). Not one to normally take a photo of my food, the amazing starter of fresh scallops with black pudding followed by sausages and mash deserves to be captured on film.
Where to stay in Moray
There are plenty of great accommodation options in Moray and Speyside. We chose to stay 3 miles from Tomintoul in the very comfortable Cattle Shed, one of three large and spacious self-contained barn conversion cottages within Balneden Steading. The Cattle Shed is very bike (and dog) friendly in a beautiful rural location with sweeping vistas across the valley.
After riding a lot in Scotland we were not sure what to expect from Moray and Speyside, but we discovered a charmingly beautiful region with varied and fun riding – from the mountains to the sea. Moray Speyside makes a great destination for a long weekend or as part of a bigger Scottish tour and is a must-do pilgrimage for any whisky lover.
We would like to say a big thanks to Moray Speyside Tourism for making the trip possible. For more information on the region, your search should begin on their website as it’s full of great information.
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