As we excitedly unloaded the test bikes in Ballater for our short-travel group test, we knew we were in for a treat. However, little did we know that we were about to experience some of the best riding we had so far experienced in Scotland. If you love riding, Ballater should be high on your destination wish-list.
“What, all the way down there?” There’s something special about descending an open ridgeline, knowing that gravity will be your friend right to the valley floor. It had been hard work getting to the summit of the ridge, but we had timed it perfectly for the setting sun. We were in a race against time. A race not against a stopwatch or STRAVA, but for a dinner reservation at the ‘Indian on the green’ restaurant. The only thing separating us from eating the restaurant out of poppadoms was the iconic Heartbreak Ridge trail falling away into the valley ahead of us. A long and challenging flow trail punctuated with tricky boulders and huge rocky slabs. It had already been a long day in Royal Deeside, a day that had shown us just how much trail gold lies in this quiet corner of Scotland. As we dropped in, hooting and hollering in the dying light, little did we know that we were about to experience a trail of such quality that it would be retold many times over beers with friends. This is the story of Ballater, a hidden jewel in Scotland’s highland crown.
It’s easy to forget Royal Deeside when planning a biking break to Scotland. Instead, bike tourists are drawn to the more popularised riding spots like the Tweed Valley, Fort William and Skye, but that would be a mistake. During our time in Ballater, we spent many days riding incredible trails, from big-mountain all-day epics to insane enduro trails that would rank as some of the best we have ridden. All the while, we felt like we were the only ones there, discovering a trail riding nirvana all to ourselves. At the heart of Royal Deeside is the village of Ballater, 69km west of Aberdeen and 13km from the Queen’s summer home of Balmoral Castle. Ballater lies just a stone’s throw from some real Scottish classics, Mount Keen, Loch Muick and Cairn Luechan to name but a few, and is also home to passionate teams of local builders handcrafting superb enduro style trails in the forests.
Ballater and the surrounding area would make a great stop on any Scottish MTB road trip, with enough trails to easily give 4-5 days of varied fun. It’s also an ideal starting point for many Cairngorm epics – classic routes that have challenged riders for many generations. If you prefer your riding steep and technical, a short drive will take you to Pitfichie forest. There you will find that hard-working volunteers of the Aberdeenshire Trails Association (ATA) have sculpted out some serious enduro gold, playing host to a number of Scottish Enduro Series rounds.
Our perfect Ballater break would be to take in the iconic Loch Muick loop, spend a day on the short but exciting trails of Glen Tanar, take a trip around the Green Mile and of course spend a day on the great enduro trails around Ballater. Speaking of the latter, the masterpiece ‘Mastermind’ is the trail to hit if you enjoy riotous cornering fun. Be warned; you will undoubtedly want to pedal back for another go. After some lunch in either the Brown Sugar or Bothy cafe, we would head over the road to climb back up to the ridgelines to the south of Ballater for a run down the rocky, Heartbreak Ridge. Time it for sunset and it will be the perfect finish to a great trip.
What bike to take to Ballater?
With such a wide variety of trails on offer, you could bring anything from an XC bike to a full-bore enduro rig and still find trails to challenge the bike. To get the most out of your trip we would recommend a 140-150 mm trail bike, especially if you want to venture into the Cairngorm range and explore the tougher enduro trails like Mastermind. The ground conditions are dirt and rock, so good all-round tyres with a burly sidewall would be best to avoid pinch flats.
Scotlands right to roam
Adventure seekers and those looking for access to nature will find more welcome in Scotland than anywhere else in the UK. In 2003 a legislation was passed that granted ‘freedom to roam’, giving open access to the paths of hills and valleys to anyone who wants to explore them. This amazing access right also extends to those on bicycles, including eMTBs. As long as you respect the interests of other people, take responsibility for your own actions and care for the environment, you can ride almost anywhere in Scotland.
Would Ballater be a good eMTB destination?
Ballater and the Cairngorm would be an ideal location to bring a full-suspension eMTB. There are many great trails and classic loops that start within a half hours drive from Ballater that will take you deep into the Cairngorm mountain ranges, routes such as the Loch Muick circuit which makes a cracking day out on an eMTB if you are frugal on the battery. However, being Scotland, the weather can change in minutes so it’s always important to pack accordingly.
Renting a bike in Ballater or more information?
If you need to hire a bike or need more info, pop in a see the team at Cycle Highlands in the centre of Ballater. They have a fleet of hire bikes and the local knowledge to ensure you ride the best trails during your stay.
Where to stay in Ballater?
During our trip, we stayed in the Glen Tanar estate. Located about 15 minutes drive from the village of Ballater, the working estate has eight bike-friendly luxury cottages that sleep between 2 and 8 people. In a quiet rural location, it’s an excellent spot for families, or those looking to get away from it all. There are great MTB trails and loops right out of the door. The estate is a haven for Scottish Wildlife with black grouse, pine martens, ospreys and crossbills, but most exciting is a resident pair of majestic Golden Eagles.
Where to eat in Ballater?
You cannot go wrong in Ballater; all the cafes we dropped into were welcoming and served up some great food. If you have deep pockets, one dining experience that should not be missed is the Clachan Grill Steak House. Prices are expensive, but the atmosphere is authentic, and the food is sublime. If your budget is more VW than Bentley we would highly recommend the Spider On A Bicycle cafe in Aboyne, the coffee is top-notch, the food is great and the staff are super welcoming.
We would like to extend our thanks to Will at ‘Developing Mountain Biking in Scotland‘ for his excellent trail chat and help in making this trip possible.
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Words: Photos: Trevor Worsey and Finlay Anderson
