“You could bury a body out here and totally get away with it,” it’s probably true I thought, as we wound our way through the lunar-like landscape of Northern Harris. It had already been an adventure getting here, eight hours from Edinburgh, including a ferry crossing, but what a journey it had been. We were here to check out the riding potential of one of Scotland’s most mysterious islands, and looking outside the car windows, we were in for a treat.
The Isle of Harris lies in the North West corner of the Outer Hebrides, a 100-mile long island chain off the West Coast of Scotland. Sharing a border with the Isle of Lewis, very little is known of the mountain biking on Harris. Most biking tourists are transfixed on the more popular Isle of Skye after it shot to fame in the Danny MacAskill video ‘the ridge’. But as we rolled into another rocky hairpin, one that would rival anything in the Alps, hanging precariously over the gin clear ocean, it was pretty clear that Harris packed its own mighty Scottish punch.
Our ride had started in Urgha, just east of Tarbert, and the 22km loop we were enjoying is a true Harris classic which can be enjoyed both ways, clockwise for longer mellower descents, or anticlockwise for some added spice (you can download the gpx filer here). We, of course, had chosen the anticlockwise route, and as such we now found ourselves calling on every downhill skill we possessed to keep upright on the seriously steep switchbacks, increasingly aware of the long drop to the ocean. The trail had been the perfect mix of fast rolling well-trodden mountain path, punctuated with rocky sections that took skill to clean. Reaching the bottom we breathed a sigh of relief before taking yet another amazing beach view. Harris is an island of contrasts, from the almost lunar landscape and rugged mountains of the North to the exposed cliffs and white sandy beaches of the South.
With Scotlands open access laws, (you can ride pretty much everywhere) Harris is the perfect destination for the adventurous rider. You will not find waymarked trail-centre trails, though, you will need to carry a map and know how to read it, and mobile phone reception is patchy so you need to take it steady on the technical stuff! There are no heroes in the highlands! But you will find amazing riding, warm and friendly locals and an experience that will stay with you forever, For those looking for a destination that captures the best of the spirit of Scotland, while being far from the tourist trail, then Harris is a must do!
Getting to Harris
If you are travelling with bikes, the best way to get to Harris is via the Ullapool to Stornaway Caledonian MacBrayne ferry. Offering eight sailings a day the large drive-on ferry takes 2.5 hours to cross over and is not as expensive as you may think! We found it really comfortable with a spacious viewing deck. From Ullapool to Stornoway, the crossing is just £18.40 per adult return fare and £99.00 return for a car. If travelling from Skye the 1 hr 40 crossing from Uig to Tarbert is just £12.20 adult return and £60 return for a car. Be sure to get out on the top deck when sailing to enjoy the incredible views and chance your luck at spotting a sea eagle. You can find the ferry schedule and prices here. The drive to Ullapool takes you past other world class riding destinations (check out the excellent Highland E-Guide for more information, and a trip to the Outer Hebrides deserves to be part of a longer trip.
Getting around on Harris
With a resident population of only two thousand it’s surprising to see the high level of investment on the island, indeed, the road that connects the South East beaches is colloquially known as the ‘Golden Road’ for legend has it that it would have perhaps been cheaper to pave it with gold, every meter either blasted out of a cliff or reclaimed from the sea. Getting around is easy, and the bigger villages all have very good pubs and places to eat. The new distillery cafe is also a perfect lunch time stop, with friendly staff and great food.
Mountain biking on Harris
For the entire time we were on the Island we found ourselves wondering why more people don’t have Harris on their radar. We rode past incredible lochs, descended perilous switchbacks hanging high over the turquoise ocean, all the while without seeing another tyre track. The mountain trails were rugged, but in great condition, and the West Coast beaches were just incredible. We would highly recommend the Urgha to Rhenigidale loop (pictured anticlockwise but can be ridden clockwise for longer more mellow descents), the classic out and back Postman’s walk also near Urgha is epic. If you are looking for a guide the best place to start would be Go-Where, where Andy McKenna will see you right. If you have ninja map skills and prefer to go it alone there are some great routes available after a quick google search. For more advice on riding in Scotland and its unique access laws there are some excellent resources available online, notably the ‘Do The Ride Thing’ and the “Scottish Outdoor Access Code“. For more information on the Outer Hebrides as a whole, the Visit Outer Hebrides site is a great place to start.
What bike to take to Harris
You could have fun on any bike on Harris, from a road-bike to a big hitting 160 mm enduro bike. Our tip for maximum fun would be a capable 130 -140 mm trail bike, opening up the long mountain rides with enough travel to take the sting out of the rocky trails. The trails are fast and rocky so good tyres are a must and be sure to carry a map and ride steady as many locations do not have good phone coverage. If you have space in the van, throw in a road bike too as the riding is spectacular and the tarmac sublime.
What else to do on Harris
Harris is not just a biking destination, it’s one of the most beautiful places on the planet. Don’t head there expecting bustling nightlife and bars, it’s a tranquil place where the wildlife takes centre stage. If you love beaches then Luskentyre, where empty stretches of pristine white sands meet gin-clear turquoise waters, will rock your world. A beach BBQ or bonfire would be the perfect end to a long day on the bikes. If the weather is not so great or you are partial to a dram of whisky, then the Harris Distillery is well worth a visit. Although very new, and still waiting for their first casks to mature, Harris Distillery make an excellent gin and it’s a great way to learn more about how whisky is made, and what will make the Harris blend so special. We would also like to thank Hebridean Luxury Holidayswho kindly hosted our team on Lewis in their wonderful accommodation.
Words and photos: Trev Worsey
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