The levers are perfectly adjusted, the cables are neatly routed, and your favourite grips are mounted – sounds like the perfect cockpit setup, right? Almost! If you’ve got the wrong handlebar, something will always feel off. Fortunately, our MTB handlebar guide is here to help, explaining why so many riders neglect bar choice, and how to find the perfect handlebar for you and your bike.
What’s one of the best things about new bike day? Fine-tuning those premium parts to suit your preferences to a tee! The bike truly becomes yours only when everything feels just right, and much of that sensation is in your hands. You can customise the brake levers by adjusting the reach, positioning them on the handlebar, and setting the bite point to your liking. Just a quick pull of the levers can give you a sense of what feels good and what doesn’t. The same goes for the grips – you can immediately tell which ones feel comfortable in your hands. But does that make a perfect cockpit? Not quite. What about the handlebar, that obviously essential yet often overlooked connection between grips, stem, and those little levers in between? Should you tune it? Absolutely! And we’re not just talking about shaving off a few grams.
The impact of the handlebars on the overall handling of our mountain bikes is hard to quantify, but it’s definitely noticeable on the trail. Ideally, it should offer responsive handling, provide feedback from the trail, while also dampening vibrations in your hands, promoting a good riding posture, and allowing you to ride pain-free all day. Oh, and it should also look good, weigh little, and be affordable. Simple enough, right? Well… finding the perfect handlebar requires some patience, but the reward is pure riding enjoyment. We’ve combined all our expertise, consulted the experts from NEWMEN, SQlab, MERIDA, and Orbea, and crafted the ultimate MTB handlebar guide to help you navigate the handlebar jungle successfully.
So you think your handlebar fits?
You might think the handlebar currently mounted on your bike fits you just fine – until you try one that actually fits. There are some clear signs that swapping out your handlebar for a different model might be worthwhile. These include numb fingers, aching palms or shoulders, arm pump, the urge to shake out your hands, or frequently repositioning your grip in search of comfort. However, the need for a different handlebar isn’t always as cut and dried, as we often get used to what we have. But once you’ve held the right handlebar in your hands, you’ll know the difference! You might not experience immediate enlightenment in the workshop or during the first parking lot test, but definitely on the trail.
Unfortunately, the extra effort involved deters many riders from tackling this issue! As a result, handlebars are often chosen based on simple, yet questionable, assumptions and then never reconsidered: carbon is classier and higher-quality than aluminium, a 35 mm stem diameter looks impressively beefy, and a full 800 mm width provides tons of stability on the trail, right? While this superficial checklist might work for some, it misses the mark entirely for many riders. But why?
The most common mistake we and the experts we consulted observe on the trails is the use of excessively wide handlebars. This is especially true for smaller riders who are hesitant to shorten their bars, resulting in significant handling disadvantages. However, cutting down a handlebar can introduce other issues, which we’ll discuss further below. Caution is also advised with burly handlebars featuring a 35 mm diameter at the stem. While they may look impressive and more robust than the slimmer 31.8 mm alternative, a larger diameter typically results in increased stiffness. This can be beneficial – or it can be too much of a good thing. Interestingly, the brand representatives we asked are split on this issue: two prefer the fatter 35 mm size on their bikes, while the other two favour handlebars with a skinnier 31.8 mm diameter.
“Carbon is better than aluminium, right?” Well, yes and no. Due to their multi-layer construction, or specific lay-up, carbon components like handlebars can range all the way from feeling like wet noodles to being rock hard, the perfect balance lying somewhere in between – much like aluminium, which also offers varying stiffness levels depending on the alloy and wall thickness. We’ve previously discussed the ideal stiffness of MTB components in a separate article, available here. There isn’t a clear winner when it comes to handlebar materials. However, we do know that high-quality carbon handlebars are lighter, albeit significantly more expensive than their metal counterparts. Therefore, it’s wise to start by testing with more affordable aluminium and only switch to carbon once you have a good idea of the dimensions and specs of your ideal handlebar.
“Wide, thick, and preferably made of carbon” are questionable criteria on which to base your handlebar choice. So, what characteristics should you actually look for to ensure you pick the right model?
MTB handlebar guide: How important are upsweep, backsweep & rise?
A handlebar is much more than just its width, thickness, and material. Its characteristics also include the angles at which its ends are tilted upward (upsweep) and horizontally toward the rider (backsweep). These angles are measured in degrees, and the optimal geometry depends heavily on personal preference. However, many models tend to have similar sweep measurements.
The popular Renthal FatBar, for example, features a 5° upsweep and a 7° backsweep. Similarly, the often-seen Race Face Next R 35 has a 5° upsweep and 8° backsweep. The 3OX handlebar from ergonomics enthusiasts SQlab offers a 4° upsweep and, depending on the model, a 9°, 12°, or extreme 16° backsweep. The latter variant is primarily aimed at XC racers who want a more ergonomic transition from forearm to wrist, despite a dynamically aggressive riding position. For enduro and downhill use, SQlab also recommends models with a backsweep of just under 10°.
As long as you’re riding without pain or noticeable fatigue in your hands, arms, or shoulders, you don’t need to worry about the sweep values of your handlebar. However, if you’re not satisfied with the ergonomics of your current handlebar, you’ll need to try out a few options. You can use the measurements of popular models as a guide in your search.
Handlebar rise refers to the vertical height difference from the clamp to the grip ends, and it’s recently become a hotly debated topic. Like the frame’s stack height – the difference between the bottom bracket and the top of the head tube – there’s a clear trend towards higher rise in handlebars. The higher the cockpit, the more upright your riding position becomes, shifting your centre of gravity towards the rear wheel. This doesn’t just relieve pressure on your hands, but also tends to instil more confidence on steep descents by positioning you behind the handlebar rather than over it, making you feel less like you might go over them. Pro downhiller Dakotah Norton made headlines in the 2024 World Cup by using a handlebar with an impressive 75 mm rise, noticeably raising his cockpit – a move that earned him the nickname “Stackotah” within the community.
More rise increases rider confidence, especially on steep descents. However, this advantage can turn into a disadvantage on flatter terrain. A very high handlebar can make it harder to keep the front wheel weighted, which is crucial for maintaining control. This is particularly noticeable on flatter trail sections and in open corners.
By the way, the experts we consulted for this article, who undoubtedly have access to the best gear, prefer handlebars with between 25 and 40 mm rise on their personal bikes, as shown in the table below. For instance, the mountain bikes from industry giant MERIDA now typically feature 30 mm rise handlebars, whereas 18–20 mm was the standard until last year. SQlab, Orbea, and Race Face also see the benefits and offer options with moderately increased rise. It doesn’t have to be quite as extreme, but perhaps Dakotah is on to something.
Handlebar reality: Which models do the experts ride?
| Stephan Seitz (170 cm), Product Manager MTB MERIDA |
Race Face ERA Carbon: width 770 mm, thickness 35 mm, Rise 40 mm Upsweep 5°, Backsweep 8° |
| Tim Jürgensen (184 cm), R&D / Product Manager NEWMEN |
NEWMEN Advanced VGS 318.25 Carbon: width 775 mm, thickness 31.8 mm, Rise 25 mm Upsweep 8°, Backsweep 8° |
| Markel Uriarte (181 cm), Global MTB Product Manager Orbea |
OC MC10 Carbon: width 770 mm, thickness 35 mm, Rise 35 mm |
| Uli Plaumann (175 cm), R&D Manager SQlab |
SQlab 3OX med 12° Carbon: width 740 mm, thickness 31.8 mm, Rise 30 mm Upsweep 4°, Backsweep 12° |
MTB handlebar guide: Which handlebar width is right for you?
Yes, having a wide stance with your hands on the handlebar initially provides a sense of stability. However, if your hands are spread too wide apart, you move beyond the range of optimal power generation, placing ergonomic strain on your wrists, and even risk banging your hands and knees on tight, technical trails. Additionally, a longer handlebar requires more movement at the grips to steer the front wheel. Depending on your personal preference and riding style, this can result in either a pleasantly stable or uncomfortably sluggish handling.
As an extreme example: when a BMX or slopestyle rider initiates a barspin, they grip the handlebar closer to the centre because the shorter lever provides more effective rotation with the same hand movement than gripping the outer ends of the bar. Even if you’re not performing tricks on your bike, this principle can make a shorter handlebar your ally on technical trails or in tight, fast switchbacks where agility and quick direction changes are crucial – or when the trees are simply too close together.
A crucial step in finding the perfect handlebar is determining which width is right for you. This requires a few simple tests that won’t cost you a dime – just a handlebar you already have and a bit of patience. By considering your height, arm length, and shoulder width, you can get a rough idea of where you fall within the typical MTB handlebar range of 740 to 800 mm. If you prefer riding fast and aggressively, ploughing through everything in your way rather than going around, consider adding a few millimetres for extra stability. If you enjoy weaving playfully through tight forest trails, start with a slightly shorter width for added agility.
Next step: simulating a shorter handlebar! To simulate a shorter handlebar, move your levers and grips inward to the exact width you want to test. If your current lock-on grips don’t allow this, swap them out for an older pair of which you can trim the ends, allowing you to slide them as far inward as needed.
Does it look ridiculous when the bar ends stick out like on a beat-up kid’s bike? Absolutely! But as long as you keep the plastic end caps in place to prevent the bar from taking a sample of your flesh, the end justifies the means. Now, all you do is go on a few test rides with different settings and take notes of each setting, and you’re well on your way to finding the your perfect handlebar width – good job! And for those hesitant to make a permanent cut, you can always try the NEWMEN VariGrip handlebar, which allows you to adjust the width as needed.
Width and handlebar flex – To cut or buy?
Okay, so you’ve completed your test and found that a width of 750 mm feels just right – great! But what do you do with your 800 mm handlebar? Cutting it down is a straightforward task for anyone with a metal saw and a cutting guide in their toolbox – or even a pipe cutter. However, keep in mind that shortening the handlebar also reduces its flex, and this becomes increasingly noticeable the further you shorten the original length.
Lab tests conducted by MERIDA with handlebars from various brands have shown that stiffness increases by about 10% for every 20 mm you shorten the bar. This applies to both aluminium and carbon handlebars. So, while cutting down your handlebar is a simple solution, be aware that it will result in a stiffer feel, which might affect your riding experience.
So, if you trim a handlebar that offered sufficient compliance at its original 800 mm width down to 740 mm, you can expect about a 30% increase in stiffness. That’s almost like jumping onto a bed without a mattress (though MERIDA’s test results didn’t include this analogy). With this in mind, shortening a handlebar by more than 20 mm is not necessarily recommended. Although some manufacturers include guide marks that suggest their bars can be significantly shortened, doing so will noticeably increase handlebar stiffness on the trail.
To not just have the perfect width but also achieve the desired flex of your handlebar, it’s wise to purchase one as close as possible to the width you intend to ride after cutting it to width. Bear in mind, this assumes that manufacturers design their handlebars differently for various widths to maintain appropriate flex – rather than simply selling a cut-down 800 mm bar as a 740 mm one, which would tend to be too stiff. By choosing a bar specifically designed for your preferred width, you ensure the best combination of comfort and performance on the trail.
If you take our insights about the ideal width, flex, and clamp diameter to heart and are willing to tinker with different settings, you stand a good chance of finding a handlebar that truly fits you. It might be the model you’ve already got mounted on your bike that just needs a slight trim, or you might end up buying a new bar. Since carbon is more expensive but not inherently better than aluminium handlebars, this needn’t be an expensive exercise, though one that can significantly enhance your riding experience and enjoyment on the bike.
The handlebar has a huge impact on body posture, handling, and comfort on your mountain bike. Both carbon and aluminium handlebars become significantly stiffer when shortened. Advice like “as wide and thick as possible” is usually misguided, and a common reason why many riders aren’t having as good a time on their bike as they could. However, those willing to conduct a few tests can navigate the jungle of misconceptions and find the perfect setup for them, resulting in optimum handling and comfort.
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Words: Moritz Geisreiter Photos: Diverse
